Saturday, April 19, 2014

On the Road Again...

Our flight from Quito was not until 11:55 pm. We were hundreds of miles away in Canelos. After breakfast at 8 am, we said goodbye to Dagmar and Tiago and walked into the village with Christof. There had been an intense lightning and rain storm during the night, but it was still muggy out. We were sweating by the time we got to the bus. We stowed our luggage and hopped on for the short, one hour drive to Puyo. Upon our arrival we found a taxi, gave the driver the note that Christof wrote in Spanish, and he took us to the crossroads where we could catch a bus to Tena. We needed to do this because not all of the buses go to the station in town. There was already a fairly large group of people waiting, including an older gentleman from the village of Canelos. We waited and waited and waited. Meanwhile three buses went in the other direction towards Puyo. One group of people gave up and crammed themselves into a compact sized taxi. We contemplated our options and decided to wait a little longer. At one point, the man from Canelos pulled a large plastic bottle out of his bag. He drank from it, passed it to his two friends and they drank too. He motioned to Craig and Craig shook his head and pointed to the two water bottles on the outside of his camera bag. The man smiled and put the bottle away. A few minutes later, he smiled again and laughed. It occurred to him that Craig was declining the  "water" because we had our own. It then occurred to us, that he wasn't offering us water at all. Unfortunately (or fortunately) we missed our opportunity to try authentic "chica."

Finally, a bus approached. A man jumped off the bus yelling, "Coca, Coca, Coca. Tena, Tena, Tena." The crowd rushed the curb and as soon as the bus stopped, everyone was trying to get on. This included four women who were selling food and drinks from their bus stop stand. We had backpacks that needed to be stowed so we took care of that, then tried to cram our way into the doorway. We were too late. Apparently, all the empty seats were taken, and no standees were allowed. People reluctantly disembarked. We retrieved our luggage and returned dejectedly to the sidewalk. If this was the process, how were we ever going to get back to Quito?

About ten minutes later, another bus appeared. We quickly sprang into action. The man jumped off the bus yelling, "Tena, Tena, Tena." Craig raced to the back to stow our backpacks while Lynda pushed her way onto the bus. As long as we could get seats, we would be on our way. It worked! We sat back and breathed a sigh of relief. Two hours later, we arrived in Tena. It was even hotter there. Then we needed to find a bus to Quito. The similarity between bus stations in Ecuador and bus stations in Turkey is uncanny. They are a madhouse. It was 1:45 pm. We were directed to a kiosk and got tickets for the 2:30 bus to Quito. Our original plan was to go to the hot springs in Papallacta, but we soon realized we were not going to have enough time so we went as far as Pifo, just outside of Quito. From there we had a short taxi ride to the airport. We finally arrived at 7pm exhausted, dirty, hungry and triumphant. We made it! Our first order of business was "banos" then food. We found a large booth at TGI Fridays, dumped our gear and treated ourselves to a grand meal. We made up for the lack of food during the day and the upcoming lack of food on our flight to Houston.

We were able to sleep for most of the flight from Quito to Houston. After clearing US Customs and Immigration, eating breakfast and buying duty free, we were ready to board our last flight to Vancouver. Home in time to do some laundry and get ready for work on Monday. The only question that remains unanswered is "Where to next?"

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Canelos

Where on earth is Canelos? Well, it is an indigenous Kichwa community in the southeastern Andies foothills of Ecuador. Our adventure started in the morning with a taxi ride from Banos to the Oriente bus station (near the Mercado Mariscal) in Puyo. We were a bit early for our 12:30 pm bus so we waited and watched all the action. The locals were coming and going with their bags of rice, boxes of chicks, sacks of bananas etc. We must have looked quite out of place with our bright orange and purple backpacks and our fair skin. We were excited for our adventure into the rainforest. We were headed to the Huella Verde Amazon Rainforest Lodge. Lynda had read about it on Trip Advisor, and we liked the sound of its intimate size and quiet location. Once the bus got going, it only took us 45 minutes to reach Canelos. Our host, Christof, was waiting for us at the dropoff point. We piled into his Toyota 4 wheel drive pick up truck and drove across the village to the end of the road. From there we cross a suspension bridge over the river, and walked about a km into the lodge.  Rubber boots are included in the cost of your stay at Huella Verde and you do need them. It was the end of the rainy season and the path was pretty mucky. It didn't take us long to reach to lodge where we met Dagmar and 14 month old Tiago. Dagmar gave us a cold drink, we ordered our dinner and headed up to our cabin. The first order of business was a swim in the Bobonaza river. We changed our clothes and went back to meet Christof. He took us down to the river, escorted us to a safe sandbank and left us to enjoy the sun and a swim. Ahhh relaxation...this is what holidays are all about! That night we enjoyed a traditional Amazonian meal cooked by Dagmar and Christof. We had chicken and Tilapia cooked in large palm leaves, served with yucca, patacones (green bananas) and salad. It was a huge meal, but we had not eaten since breakfast so we had no problem scarfing it down.

Day 2: We awoke in the middle of the night to rain pounding down on the metal roof of our cabin. It was still raining when we went down for breakfast in the morning. It wasn't long before the rain stopped and we headed out for a rainforest walk with Luis, a Kichwa villager, who works for Christof and Dagmar. Interestingly, Luis does not speak English and we speak minimal Spanish. Craig did an excellent job of interpreting Luis' Spanish and hand jestures, and we had some plant identification sheets Christof printed off the internet for more detailed english information. We saw some insects and birds, and many plants used for varios medicinal purposes. All in all, it was an enjoyable way to see the surrounding rainforest. There was no power for the rest of the day because a tree fell across the power lines between Puyo and Canelos. Authorities reported that it would be fixed by 3 pm the following day. Luckily for us, Christof and Dagmar had a gas stove and oven. We might not have access to the internet, but we were not going to miss a meal.

Day 3: We walked the path back to the truck with Christof for a tour of the village of Canelos. It isn't a big village, but it does have history on its side. Canelos was originally founded in 1560 with the placement of the first Ecudorian Catholic mission. The church is still there, along with a boarding school for girls and boys. We also visited a pottery maker and learned about the making of chica, a fermented alcoholic drink, brewed in large pottery urns for special occasions. On our way back to the lodge, we met a group of women who had been out foraging on their land. They had bags and bags of produce. Christof offered them a ride back to town, so he and Craig loaded the bags into the back of the pick up and we delivered the women and the goods back to their home. Later that afternoon, Christof took us down to show us their cocoa plantation. In all they have 1000 trees, but they are currently in a state of disrepair. The price of cocoa dropped so low that it was not economically feasible for them to maintain the plantation. Now that the price of cocoa has risen again, they are beginning to rejuvenate it. Unfortunately, there is a lot of work to be done to prune the trees and eradicate the fungus that has taken over. We also learned about the process of harvesting and drying the cocoa seeds. They are white in colour until they are properly dried. Once dried, they are brown and can be ground up with a mill to make powder. Later that evening, we enjoyed a rich, tasty cup of hot cocoa made from some dried beans. It was a lot different than the Nestle's Quick we are used to in Canada.

It was our last night at Huella Verde. The power was back on shortly after 3 pm. Craig ordered ceviche for dinner and had a cooking lesson in the kitchen. He also convinced Christof and Dagmar to have dinner with us in the dining area. We were swarmed by flying termites as we sat and ate. It was nothing to worry about really. Dagmar and Christof informed us that it was a sign of a storm  coming. A couple of hours later, tucked away in our cabin, the lightning and thunder and rain were upon us. By morning, it was clear again and the termites were gone.

We loved our stay at Huella Verde. We were lucky enough to be the only guests at the time we were there. Christoph and Dagmar were fabulous hosts. Their location is easy to get to and perfect for people who want to enjoy the peace and quiet of the rainforest without having to travel hours and hours into the bush.

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Sunday, April 13, 2014

Banos

Chaos...that is the only way to describe the scene at the Baltra airport on our way off the island. So many people... where were they all for the last 8 days? We are happy to report that, at the most, we saw two other ships on our daily excursions. That was not the case at the airport. So few airline attendants...Craig waited in line three times. When he got to the front of the line the first time, our baggage had not arrived from the boat. When we got to the front of the line the second time, we were told that they weren't checking in our flight yet. When we got to the front of the line the third time, the line stopped moving for at least 20 minutes. When the attendants did start working again, we had to contend with so many groups and their pushy guides. We had no guide at that point so we had to push back. Finally, we checked in and headed to the security line up. It was so long and so slow that we were afraid we were going to miss our flight. When we got through that line up, they were boarding our flight. Lynda headed to the bathroom while Craig waited by the departure gate. Funnily enough, he was hassled by the same girl who took her own sweet time checking us in. All of a sudden she was in a hurry for us to board the plane. Too bad sister. Nature was calling. Baltra to Guayaquil, Guayaquil to Quito. We flew all the way from Vancouver without so much as a packet of pretzels. Thank you Aerogal for both the meal and the snack. After collecting our luggage we said goodbye to Anna, Paul, Elizabeth, Scott and Emily and exited the arrivals area. It was wonderful to see Ivan waiting for us, especially since it was already 3:30 pm. He had agreed to transport us to Banos. We had a pleasant drive and enjoyable conversation, and we arrived three and a half hours later.
Banos is the adventure hub of Ecuador. Backpackers are drawn to it for the canyoning, ziplining, horseback riding, hiking, rafting, cycling and "puenting." (Puenting is like bungy jumping without the bounce.) We weren't there for any of that. We were there for some relaxation. Luckily for us, we were staying outside of town in a place called Finca Chamanapamba. It is located below Tungurahua, an active volcano, but it was cloudy and overcast while we were there so we didn't see anything. It is also located beside the Chamana waterfall. There is something so peaceful about the sound of running water. When we first arrived Regina and Dietrich were away on the coast. Their son, Oliver, was very helpful and informative. He directed us to a hiking trail on the other side of the suspension bridge (Sauce) and through the hills which would take us, in a roundabout way, to town. As usual, Craig was ready and raring to go. Lynda, less so. She was worried about hiking without a local and Craig's expensive camera equipment. In the end, we went and encountered very few people. We ended up in town where we visited the Parque Central and the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Agua Santa.
The next day, Regina and Dietrich were back. We really wanted to go to La Casa del Arbol so Regina arranged for a taxi driver to come and pick us up. Marcello spoke about as much English as we spoke Spanish, but he was very kind and attentive. He drove us up to the famous swing, waited with us while we took our turn, then drove us down to Luna Runtun spa/hotel and dropped us off. We had tea and dessert in the restaurant, then hiked down the mountain and back into Banos. The swing is placed in such a way that you feel like you are swinging into the clouds. It is a very exhilarating experience and it makes for some awesome photos. In addition, to the excellent food at Finca Chamanapamba, Lynda fell in love with their adorable little dog, Anya. It's a good thing she had such a loving home, otherwise Tilly would have had a little sister.

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Tuesday, April 1, 2014

The Galápagos Islands

The Galápagos Islands are one of those places that you dream of going, but you never actually think you'll make it. Although we planned to go to Ecuador, our decision to go to the Galápagos Islands was last minute (by Lynda's standards). It was similar to the time we arrived in the Whitsundays in Australia. How can we be there and not see it? 

There are so many options for touring around the Galapagos. It is overwhelming and at times, you feel like you will never be able to make a decision. We knew that we wanted to go on a boat, but which one? Lucky for us our German friends, Sandra und Andreas, were in the Galapagos in December and went on a 68 foot catamaran called Nemo II. They were happy with their choice, although they did caution us that a lot of it depends on the guide and the other passengers. The research began. We read a lot of positive reviews of the boat, we really liked the idea of being on a smaller vessel, and the dates worked with our time frame, so we took a chance and booked it.  

Here are the highlights:

Nemo II : we were really happy with our choice. We had cabin # 1 which was on the main deck, off the lounge area. Our cabin had a matrimonial bed with its own bathroom. There was always hot water and we had some storage space. The food was unbelievable. Thanks to our chef, Fabricio, we were always full. We never expected to eat "cruise ship style" and at times, there was too much. Due to the warm, dry weather we were able to eat comfortably on the back deck. We also enjoyed the lounge chairs and seats on the upper deck and at the front of the boat. There was lots of space for everyone. The crew (Captain Antonio, Carlos, Robert, Raoul, and Jimmy) were friendly and helpful. Our guide, Graciela, was passionate and knowledgeable (Vamos, Vamos. Amigos, vamos!)

The Other Guests: we were lucky enough to only have 11 people on board. This included Jennifer and Erik from Sweden, Scott and Emily from Australia, Natascha from Germany, Jenny from England, and Elizabeth, and her children Anna and Paul from New York. There were a few bad cases of sunburn and a short bout with the flu for a few people, but overall, we were a fun, lively group.

The Snorkelling: Most days there were two opportunities for snorkelling and honestly, some of them were better than others. It depended on the clarity of the water. On the first day on Isla Seymour, we saw an array of tropical fish in beautiful, clear water. On day three, off Isla Isabela, we snorkelled with penguins, sea turtles (both the Green and the Hawksbills) and sea lions. It was amazing to be so close to these creatures in their natural environment. Each animal has its own style and personality. The zippy, little penguins, the slow, lumbering turtles and the playful sea lions. Off Isla Santiago, we swam with Galapagos sharks who preferred to sit on the ocean bottom rather than interact with us. We also saw many white tipped sharks and one black tipped shark. On Isla Genovesa, many of us (sorry Craig, Erik and Scott) were swimming very close to some Hammerhead sharks. 

Land Encounters: Every day our agenda involved a hike of some kind. We experienced both wet and dry landings. On Isla Fernandina we made a dry landing onto a dock covered with spitting, marine iguanas. They were basking in the sun and not so happy to see us. We had to slowly pick our way through the maze, hoping that no one made a misstep. On Isla Isabela, Craig was down on the ground photographing a land turtle when it decided to get a little closer. Although our naturalist insisted we keep 2 metres between us and the animals, this turtle must have missed the memo. It came right up to Craig, touched its nose to his leg, then laid its chin on his leg. Craig said it had a cold, wet nose, but a warm chin. Everyone enjoyed our experience with the Galapagos fur seals on Isla Santiago. We found a mother and its baby basking on the hot lava. After awhile the mother dove into a surge channel worn into the lava. Her baby was left on the rocks, fifteen feet above her. We watched the baby's distress as it built up its courage and dove in after her. They played in the water for awhile, then the mother used an incoming wave to lift her high onto the rocks. The baby missed its opportunity and was left behind. It called repeatedly to her, but she stayed put. Eventually, the baby found a way out of the water and flopped its way up and over the rocks to its mother's location. We were all touched by the happy reunion. 

Birds: there are lots of birds in the Galapagos, but for us, the bigger birds were much more interesting. On the first day on Isla Seymour we were surrounded by frigate birds. The males inflate a big, red pouch when they are searching for a female to mate with. They are very grand looking. We also met a few blue footed boobies. Graciela said they don't normally appear until June, but we saw a couple of them doing a mating dance. Later in the trip, on Isla Genovesa, we saw more frigate birds, some Nazca boobies and some red footed boobies. It was interesting to watch the constant interaction between the boobies, who plummeted into the water like bullets to catch fish, and the frigates who would swoop in and try and steal their catch. 

Crossing the Equator: In all, we crossed the equator four times. The first occurrence involved great fanfare. Jimmy made a mysterious cocktail that was supposed to represent the blood of the iguana. The ritual involved uttering a complicated toast and doing the limbo under a streamer which was supposed to represent the equator. On the second northbound crossing, It was less dramatic, although Craig created a frenzy by taking a picture of the GPS. Everyone else joined in the process. For both of the southbound crossings, we were asleep. 

Overall, this was an amazing trip. We have made some lifelong memories, and we have Craig's wonderful photos to remind us of this experience. We are definitely going to have to turn some of these memories into print and display them on the barren walls of our home. Our advice...if you are thinking about visiting the Galápagos Islands, don't wait. We are so glad we went! 

Otavalo

We wanted to go to Otavalo to see the market and the surrounding countryside so we decided to hire a guide/driver. Although it seemed a bit pricy ($150), it gave us the freedom to be on our own schedule. Ivan picked us up at 7:15 am so that we could make it in time to see the end of the animal market. The traffic was horrendous, which isn't abnormal. The long, narrow corridor of the city makes it  difficult to get around. Ivan spoke very good English. He gave us tons of information and patiently answered all of our questions. We arrived in Otavalo still about 9:30 am and walked over to the animal market which was nearly wrapping up. There were pigs, cows, chickens, chicks, rabbits, guinea pigs, kittens and puppies. It was very difficult for Lynda to see all the puppies and kittens. Some were crammed into cages, others were in cardboard boxes. They were all very cute. One little girl was rewarded with a puppy that only cost $3. Craig was able to take some great people and animal pictures.
Afterwards we drove to the regular market. It was very grand in comparison to the Ladner Village market. There were thousands of stalls. We decided there was no excuse for not eating healthy in this country. The fruits and vegetables were plentiful and they had obviously just come out of the ground.  The market sold everything you could possibly imagine. We found a stall with an artist selling his original works of art. Lynda was very tempted to buy one of his Quito scenes, but they were a bit too much money and he was not willing to bring his price down enough for our liking. Afterwards, we drove to a very lovely hostel for lunch. 

Feeling invigorated and refreshed, we drove to the tiny village of Peguche where we visited the Cascadas (waterfalls). These falls are sacred and an integral part of a sun festival which takes place in June. We also visited the weaving shop of Jose Maria Cotocachi and Maria Fichabamba. Maria demonstrated the weaving process for us. Lynda splurged and bought herself a scarf made of alpaca wool. Our final stop was at the home of the music group, Nanda Manachi. We heard them play their Andean music at the hostel at lunch and since Ivan knew them well, we stopped by their home. The father of the group demonstrated some Andean instruments for us and made a small set of pipes. Craig, who is always looking for theme music to play with our slide shows, bought a cd.  

Our long day was coming to an end. We drove back to Quito. By the time we were dropped off, Ivan had put in a 12 hour day. He was also going to do our very early morning transfer (5am) to the airport so we could get our flight to the Galápagos Islands. We are very excited about our impending adventure!

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