Unplugged - August 22-30, 2016
Outer Shores encourages its clients to arrive a day early and stay a night in the area to expedite the next morning’s departure. If you fly into Bella Bella, you have to take a taxi from the airport to the dock where you board a water taxi to Denny Island. We stayed the night before the trip in the Cedar Lodge at Shearwater Resort, which is clean, very basic accommodation. There is also a restaurant and grocery store on the property. More importantly, it is your last opportunity to access phone and Internet service. Craig didn’t blink an eye at this, but Lynda is a news junkie and she likes to “be in the know.” This trip was an opportunity to become completely unplugged from the world around us. (Don’t worry; there is a satellite phone on board. In the event of an emergency, help can be called). Overall, it was very liberating to be free from the shackles of technology. It took a few days to completely relax, but it happened. Our focus became the warmth of the sun on our skin, the strength of the salty, sea breeze, and an insatiable search for wildlife, in the water and on shore.
There are ample opportunities for discussion and conversation with the crew and other guests, but the boat is large enough that you can find peace and solitude, if you want it. A favourite place to do that was sitting atop the foxhole hatch near the bow of the boat, high above the water line. This perch allowed you to connect with nature on a very personal level and take in the extensive beauty ahead of you.Our Accommodation:
The Passing Cloud had three double guest cabins in use during our trip, but as one of our shipmates was on her own, there were only five guests on board. Our stateroom was in the bow and consisted of two ample sized bunks. Most mornings, Craig was one of the early risers, eager for coffee and the peace of the dawning day. Lynda preferred to snuggle deeper into her fluffy duvet and wait until the very last possible moment to exit her bunk. Each cabin has a vanity with a sink so you can brush your teeth and wash your face in the privacy of your room. There was ample space for all our clothing and personal belongings. We all shared one large head with a shower in the main cabin. There is a spacious salon below deck with an enviable naturalist’s library. The wooden beams, leather settees, natural light and oil heater make it a cozy place to hang out. Every evening we would meet there after dinner to review the day and preview the next day’s activities. Some people may not like living in such close quarters, but for us, it only enhanced the experience.
The Crew:
There are a couple of different crews on the Passing Cloud and while they are probably just as amazing as our crew, we felt extremely comfortable with the people we were sailing with on this
journey: our Captain, Russ Markel; first mate, Joel; naturalist, Spencer and chef extraordinaire, Tasha.
They were all very professional and constantly sharing their incredible knowledge, but the atmosphere on the boat was friendly and fun. Meals were a social event as there were always two crewmembers dining with us.
Craig wanted to help and learn some of the sailing duties and he was heartily welcomed.
journey: our Captain, Russ Markel; first mate, Joel; naturalist, Spencer and chef extraordinaire, Tasha.
They were all very professional and constantly sharing their incredible knowledge, but the atmosphere on the boat was friendly and fun. Meals were a social event as there were always two crewmembers dining with us.
Craig wanted to help and learn some of the sailing duties and he was heartily welcomed.
It was a personal experience like none other we have experienced. We felt like we were sailing with old friends.
The Food:
We all know the old saying “The way to someone’s heart is through his or her stomach.” Thanks to the outstanding culinary skills of Chef Tasha, we were in love by the end of Day 2. The food on the Passing Cloud is ample and delicious. It seems like we were always eating: breakfast, morning snack, lunch, afternoon snack and finally dinner. The menu was varied. A breakfast might be Heuvos Rancheros, French toast and bacon, porridge, or breakfast burritos. Examples of dinners would be salmon, roast potatoes, green beans and berry crumble for dessert, or short ribs on a cauliflower, white bean puree with brussel sprouts, and chocolate pudding with berries for dessert. It is remarkable, considering the size of the galley and the duration of the journey.
The food is stashed in nooks and crannies all over the boat, in a small freezer down below deck and in multiple coolers on deck. There are no grocery stores along the way, so all the food is pre-ordered and delivered to the boat in Bella Bella prior to departure. Outer Shores also works very hard to accommodate dietary requests. One of the guests on our trip was a vegetarian and she ate just as well as the rest of us.
The food is stashed in nooks and crannies all over the boat, in a small freezer down below deck and in multiple coolers on deck. There are no grocery stores along the way, so all the food is pre-ordered and delivered to the boat in Bella Bella prior to departure. Outer Shores also works very hard to accommodate dietary requests. One of the guests on our trip was a vegetarian and she ate just as well as the rest of us.
The Wildlife:
We’ll say right off the bat that we did not see any bears, never mind a rare spirit bear. We did, however, brave the rain and trek up a riverbed on Princess Royal Island and immerse ourselves in their habitat for several hours. The anticipation was immense, but we knew it was early in the season and a sighting was only a possibility. A few salmon were in the creek, flipping and flopping their way upstream. We found a stomp trail, a marking tree with tufts of hair; piles of fresh scat and old fish bones, but the bears remained elusive. It was incredibly peaceful sitting on the forest floor listening to the sound of the raindrops. Waiting. Rather than disappointment, we felt contentment. It would be an honour to see a bear in its natural environment, but we were happy to experience a snippet of the bears’ lifestyle. We have a greater appreciation of the need to preserve the bears’ habitat and a sense of gratitude towards those who have worked long and hard to protect this area.
That being said, we were fortunate enough to have some other wondrous wildlife encounters. On day one near the Gaudin Rocks, we witnessed some Humpback whales in the process of “bubble net feeding.” As explained to us by Russ and Spencer, the whales were swimming to the surface in a circular motion blowing bubbles below a school of fish. As the circle got smaller, the fish were forced upwards in a compact group. We watched in anticipation as bubbles and small fish appeared on the surface of the water, then the whale emerged with its mouth wide open, capturing a huge mouthful of fish. For a moment it rested on the surface, then it dove down again and repeated the process. It was very impressive to watch. At times like these it would have been great to see what was happening underwater.
On day two we were sailing in Laredo Channel when a group of Dall’s porpoises appeared out of nowhere and started “bow riding.” It was an exciting and invigorating experience to watch as the porpoises played in the breaking wake of the boat. This kept their interest for about five minutes and then they disappeared as suddenly as they arrived.
On day four, the sun was shining brightly. We were at the Northern tip of Gil Island near where the Queen of the North sank in 2006. We were heading into Wright Sound when we had over an hour of Humpback whale action right beside the boat. It was spectacular to watch a mother and her juvenile as they played. We were all on high alert, running from one side of the boat to the other, to see where they would surface next. They seemed to be as curious about us as we were about them.
On day five we had the pleasure of going ashore at Taylor Bight on the south end of Gil Island to visit Janie Wray and Herman Meuter at the Cetacea Lab. Perched over a rocky outcrop, it has the perfect vantage point to view the happenings in the Sound. Janie gave us a tour of the lab and patiently answered all our questions. Her passion for everything whales is infectious. As well as visually watching and recording whale sightings, they have installed hydrophones (underwater microphones) all over the area and are constantly listening to and recording whale sounds. We showed Janie some of the photographs we had taken and she was actually able to identify one of the whales by the damage to its fin. The Cetacea Lab also has a volunteer research assistant program in the summer months. People come from all over the world to live in this remote location and help gather data on whales. It was definitely a highlight of our journey.
We also had many encounters with Fin whales. Most of us were fairly uneducated about Fin whales, but after our visit to the Cetacea Lab, their appearance became cause for excitement. They are the second largest mammals on the planet and widely known for their speed. They are also baleen whales, but they do not breach the water like Humpbacks. Instead they move sleekly through the water until they surface, at which point in time, their long backs and prominent dorsal fins are displayed. On day six, we came out of Borrowman Bay and started south down Laredo Channel. We found ourselves surrounded by eight Fin whales and a Humpback whale. They surfaced, expelled some air out of their blowholes, and disappeared repeatedly. The crew pointed out on the chart a massive underwater cliff that we were sailing over. They explained that the Fin whales were most likely feeding on crustaceans or krill brought by the ocean currents forced up the rise.
Additionally, we saw lots of eagles and ravens, some seals and finally on day eight, we spotted a couple of sea otters while we were circumnavigating Lake Island in the Zodiac. They were having a great time fishing in the rough waters. We were all very excited to see them as we had been looking for sea otters our entire voyage.
The Excursions:
A typical day on the Passing Cloud, involved a beach or forest walk. Inevitably, a guest would ask, “What are we going to see?” to which Captain Russ would reply, with a glint in his eye, “I don’t know. I’ve never been here before.” These excursions were always cause for excitement because we were going into “uncharted” territory. On day two we left Tasha and Joel on the boat in Helmcken Inlet and went out exploring in the Zodiac. We hiked, in the heat, up a creek bed to a series of deep pools where everyone (except Lynda and Spencer) braved the frigid water and cooled down. On day three, Joel dropped us off on Campania Island and we hiked up a creek through the evergreens and explored the rugged landscape. It was boggy in some places and rocky in others, but the view was breathtaking. 180 degrees of spectacular coastal mountains and ocean. It was another very hot day and once we returned to the boat, the usual gang went for a refreshing swim in the ocean. On day four, we found a sandy beach on Princess Royal Island and bush wacked our way to an impressive waterfall. On day five, we beachcombed at a bay on Rennison Island where we discovered wolf tracks and beautiful shells. On day six, we dropped anchor in Evinrude Inlet and were taken ashore by Captain Russ, and our engaging naturalist, Spencer. We loosely followed an animal track. There were some obstacles, some detours and frequent stops to eat the scrumptious huckleberries growing in the forest. Eventually, we made it above the creek and found a lake. As we skirted the edge of it, we were on the look out for wildlife, but all we found were some wolf prints in the soft mud. We travelled about a kilometer further to a waterfall, posed for some pictures and turned back for our return journey. Not once, on these excursions, did we meet any other human beings. For that matter, other than on the first and last days of our journey, we saw only a few other boats.
The Excursions:
Klemtu:
On our journey north, we passed by the community of Klemtu, population 420. The Kitasoo and Xai’xais people, who are working together to preserve their culture and heritage, inhabit it. From a distance, Captain Russ pointed out the majestic Big House and its totem poles situated on the water’s edge. He promised that we could stop there on our way back. We are so grateful to Vernon Brown for the hour that he gave up, on short notice, to share his culture and stories with us. It was one of the most informative talks that we have had the pleasure of attending. Afterwards, we meandered down the newly builtDreamcatcher Trail and walked through the village to the hatchery before heading back to the boat.
To Sum It All Up:
We have travelled extensively in other parts of the world, but this excursion gave us an opportunity to experience beauty in our own backyard. As further testament to the quality of the Outer Shores experience, our shipmates George and Irene were on their sixth trip. Patricia was on her second trip aboard the Passing Cloud, and had come from the Netherlands to do so. We think it is fair to say that there is something for everyone on an Outer Shores expedition. It is highly likely that we will be back for the Haida Gwaii trip in the not so distant future!
Photos - Day 2
Photos - Day 3
Photos - Day 4
Photos - Day 5
Photos - Day 6
Photos - Day 7
Photos - Day 8
