Bike and Barge tour

Sontag

Goede morgen!

Our first morning, the Anna Maria Agnes, made a short jaunt down the Amsterdam-Rhine canal to Breukelen where we were introduced to Dutch bicycling. It's a Shaunessy style neighbourhood and the namesake of Brooklyn, New York. The homes were beautiful. After a couple of hours of cycling, we stopped at Fort aan de Klop for tea and toilets. Onward to Utrecht. We rode into the city centre, parked our bikes and had our packed lunch on a "grachten" (small canal). There were plenty of terraces, cathedrals, and a stunning monastery garden to visit. Back to the boat, now relocated in Utrecht. Our padded (diaperized) biking shorts worked fabulously. 

Maandag

OMG! Last night during dinner, the ship relocated to Rotterdam via the Beatrix locks. The program was to ride from Rotterdam to Shiedam to Delft and back to Rotterdam.  The distance was approximately 48 km and it was teeming rain. Everyone donned their rain gear and headed out. Within minutes, before leaving Rotterdam, we were lost. We met up with a couple of other sets of lost shipmates. Through teamwork, we found the route, although it was the return route. No problem. Proceed backwards to Delft. It was a beautiful city with both an old church (built in the 1300s) and a new church   (built in the 1400s). The new church is the site of the crypt of the Dutch Royal family. The first person buried in this crypt was Prince William of Orange in 1584. He was the one who led the rebellion against the Spanish king, Phillip II. He is considered to be the founding father of the Netherlands and the reason why the colour orange is so important to the Dutch. Unfortunately, it was initiation day for the freshman students of the local technical university. The thumping music and hordes abounded. After enjoying Delft, we continued to proceed backwards on our route home. We had a short stop in Schipluiden for cake and tea. We realized there was still approximately 20 km to return to the ship so we abandoned the program and plotted our own, most direct route to Rotterdam and the ship. We did marvellously until re-entering the city. Again, we were lost, but this time we were alone. It was very stressful. We arrived in last place, thirty minutes late, delaying the ship's departure. 

Dinsdag

The majority of the group were off on a 42 km trip to Gouda. We opted for the 25 km short route. Our first stop was Kinderdijk, the home of 19 windmills, the largest number in close proximity. Craig had a difficult time putting the camera back in the bike bag. The remainder of the day, we casually cycled along rural dyke tops. Lynda enjoyed the peace and quiet and the abundant animal life. Before arriving back at the ship in Schoonhoven, we visited the village and old dyked fortress of Nieuwpoort where we witnessed the first of many river fisherman we have seen, reel in a fish. The two boys were really excited and released their large catfish after taking some photos.

Woensdag

We left Schoonhoven en masse and rode into the countryside to the "Vredebest" cheese farm. The farm is being run by the fourth and fifth generations of the Van Vliet family who produce traditional Gouda cheese using natural and traditional procedures. They use unpasteurized cow milk and preserve the cheese in a salt brine. After the tour, we left the group and made our own route, cross country to Utrecht and the boat. Arriving early, we went into Utrecht where Lynda blew the budget and purchased a pair of Birkenstock sandals. We were able to casually make our way back to the ship for our 5:30 pm departure. 

Donderdag

We left the ship at our usual time, but we joined the pack and headed out for a cycle through the massive industrial area and locks of Velsen-Noord led by Ida. She's local to this area and is very knowledgeable about the history and goings-on. From there we entered the dunes and quiet forest of the Kennemer Duinen National Park. The grasslands of the park are maintained by herds of Scottish Highland cattle. We made our way alone to Haarlem, the namesake of Harlem, New York. We ate our lunch, serenaded by a rather large group of street musicians operating as a mini-orchestra. The St. Bavo church in the Grote Markt (market square) has a famous organ which has been played by both Mozart and Mendelssohn. We opted not to go inside, but to walk the streets for awhile. At 2:00 pm we visited the Museum Corrie ten Boomhuis where we heard the story of Corrie and her family. Their strong faith led them to hide Jews, students who refused to collaborate with the Nazis and members of the Dutch underground resistance movement. Although the family was betrayed and arrested by the  Gestapo, the six people hiding behind the false wall in Corrie's bedroom were rescued and taken to safety. The presentation given to us by a Dutch lady who has been a child during the war was excellent and the fee was only a donation to the museum. We got back to our bikes at 3:30 and raced home, not knowing how long the return trip to the ship would take. We did not want to take a chance of being late again.

Vrijdag

Last day...where has the week gone? After an overnight stay in Zaandam, our day was short and sweet. A mere 35 km. We visited a replica of a traditional Dutch village (Zaanse Schans), stopped at the lake in Twiske, took the bicycle ferry across the river and ended up behind the Central Station in Amsterdam. We headed to the secure, underground, bicycle parking underneath the station and set off to explore the wonders of the city. The place was packed with tourists, cobblestone roadways, bicycles and canals. We can't forget to mention the ladies in windowed doorways and a pungent aroma from many a small cafe. It was all very amazing, but we were happy that we had spent our time aboard the boat and in the country.

Dank u wel. 

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Travel Day

4:10 alarm, 4:20 back up alarm, 4:40 taxi pick up, 5:00 only 12.50 Euros to the airport, 5:20 baggage checked, 5:25 through security, 5:35 finally a coffee, 6:25 line up, 6:35 board Easyjet, 7:00 lift off from Lisbon, 9:00 land in Madrid, 9:25 collect baggage, 9:40 checked baggage again, 9:50 through security, 9:55 sit and wait, 11:00 roast chicken foot long sub, 12:30 line up, 12:45 board KLM, 1:20 lift off from Madrid, 3:30 land in Amsterdam, 4:20 collect baggage, 4:25 buy train tickets, 4:27 fire alarm in train tunnel, sit and wait, 4:57 train pulls out, 5:10 arrive at Central Station, 5:40 free bus ride to Azartplein and the boat, 5:50 on board, 6:00 roast pork dinner with potatoes, carrots, cauliflower and wine, 8:30 meeting, 9:00 bed. 

Aveiro

Our last stay in Portugal was in Aveiro, a university town and ancient seaport south of Porto. Today it is known as "The Portuguese Venice", due to its system of canals and boats similar to the Italian city of Venice. The boats are called "moliceiro" and they were once used for harvesting seaweed. For 6 Euros you can take a very interesting 45 minute canal tour. During our stay here, we explored the nooks and crannies of Aveiro and sought out a "lavanderia." We now have freshly laundered clothing, a huge improvement over sink washed clothes. We spent a couple of days visiting the beaches of neighbouring coastal communities, Costa Nova and Barra (on the Sao Jacinto peninsula). If you take the bus early enough in the morning, you find yourself surrounded by locals who are returning from the market with their produce and a staple here, fresh fish. Costa Nova is known for its striped fishing huts which now serve as beach homes and cafes. Barra is home to the largest Portuguese lighthouse, which is also the 26th largest in the world. Both areas are bursting at the seams with vacationers of all sorts. 

In our attempts to experience the " real places we go," in this case Portugal, there are always missed opportunities. We stumbled upon a tiny store called "rializacoes" selling, of all things, salt. Salt harvested from the sea. In talking to one of the owners we discovered that salt harvesting in the Aveiro region dates back to ancient times and of the 253 salt pans that existed in the mid 20th century, only 8 still remain. One of them is Puxadairos island and it belongs to this family. We tried to take a tour, but low attendance due to a lack of advertising and a lack of time on our part, made it impossible. We were quite disappointed, but we would encourage anyone in the area to take advantage of this authentic Portuguese experience before it disappears.

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Porto

In 1755 most of Lisboa was destroyed in a massive earthquake and subsequently rebuilt. Porto was spared and as a result, a lot of the beautiful old architecture still exists. The streets remain the appropriate size for horse and cart, but that's ok, as we left our car back at the airport in Lisboa. We arrived by train. Only 25 euros each, cheap! We have continued to eat and drink our way through the country. Every time we arrive somewhere new we are inundated with local specialties, which include seafood, pastries and in Porto, the strong, sweet, fortified wine called port. On Sunday afternoon we walked over the Ponte Dom Luis I to Vila Nova de Gaia and toured the Offley cave. As we sampled a white and a red port, we chatted with some teachers from Oregon who were in the country for a Habitat for Humanity project. Of course, we purchased a bottle to enjoy with friends and family at home.

We found an amazing guest house called Casa das Loios, located in the "centro" just 2 blocks from the Sao Bento Train Station (one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal). We were given great advice and daily Portuguese lessons from Marco, Luisa and Patricia.  Knowing how easily we could travel by train, we decided to go to Guimaraes for the day. Guimaraes is called "The Cradle of the Nation and Portuguese identity," as it was the birthplace of its first independent king in 1110. As well as ending up in the middle of a wedding, we spent the day wandering narrow streets, viewing castles and palaces, and having several cerveja with some new, old friends from Liverpool and their young girls, who enjoyed playing in the fountain in the Praca S. Tiago.

Our time in Porto has been way too short, but we are running out of days and our plan is to spend the time we have left on the beach. So, we are heading south to Aveiro where we will hang out with the rest of the Portuguese, French, Spanish and Italian holidaymakers, until we return to Lisboa for our flight to Amsterdam.

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Salema

The Algarve was not necessarily our cup of tea, but Salema is a quaint fishing village with a sandy beachfront. Every morning fisherman return to shore, clean their nets and sell their catch to the fish buyers, on the same beaches where tourists sunbathe. We made our own discovery in the form of a family owned restaurant called O Buzio, hidden away behind the town square, with its traditional Portuguese tiled walls and seashore theme. Nina and Luis cooked and served us dinner three nights in a row. We especially enjoyed the pork ribs with homemade BBQ sauce and the gourmet banana split served in an edible dish.

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Monchique

Monchique is the perfect location for people who want to be in the Algarve, but not in the thick of things. From our perch at Vilafoia, 502 metres above sea level, we have the perfect view of Portimao, Lagos and other coastal towns. At night their lights line the edge of the Mediterranean. Yet, we are just 30 minutes away.

Our first day here we drove along the motor way to Tavira and Santa Luzia. Our destination was the Praia de Barril. This is not an ordinary beach. It is the home of the "Cemiterio de Ancoras." There is a plot of land, and someone (it is not clear who) assembled hundreds of used, rusty anchors. Some date back to the Age of Discovery, the 1400s. It is quite an impressive sight, although most of the beach goers were oblivious to its presence. We thought it was quite cool. We also enjoyed the train ride across the island to the beach. After another beach day, we shared more Portuguese delicacies, including a tasty "salada de polvo" (octopus salad). 

The next day we drove to the top of Mount Foia (904 metres) where we saw both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean coasts. We also hiked through the town of Monchique to the convent on the top of the hill. Although it is owned and occupied by an individual family, they allowed us entry and we wandered through the crumbling ruins at our leisure. It was the home of Franciscan monks for two hundred years and it features prominently in Monchique's history. On the path to the convent, there is a man with a guitar. He has his case open to collect money and pretends to play, but in reality, he is just another panhandler. We were forewarned about his existence, and although we did not give him any money, he did not bother us. 

We spent Saturday night in Silves at their annual medieval fair. It was actually exciting for us to be in a town where a medieval fair actually had some meaning. Many of the inhabitants were dressed in clothing from the time and the streets were lined with stalls and vendors of all kinds. We paid to watch two shows. The first was a jousting demonstration which turned out to be quite fun. The "knights" and their mounts were very skilled. The other was a dance/circus performance. It was very professional, but it wasn't what we were expecting and we weren't sure of the theme, so it wasn't as enjoyable as the jousting. By the time we left at midnight, it was wall to wall people. We felt lucky to have been able to attend such a fun event. 

Our last stop before we return the car to Lisbon is the fishing village of Salema, near the south west  point of Portugal. We are looking forward to exploring the area around Sagres and Cabo de St. Vincent.

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Gems South of Milfontes

If you are looking for sun, sand and Portuguese people, you need to head to the west coast of Portugal. We had a wonderful time exploring the beaches and towns south of Vila Nova de Milfontes.

Praia do Almograve - we never actually stopped in town, but we loved the beach so much that we spent two separate days there. Parking was ample and the beach was a short walk down a flight of stairs. We discovered that by mid day (when we were usually arriving), most people were leaving. They returned late in the afternoon when we were packing up. The beach looks incredibly different depending on the time of day. At high tide, the waves are strong and menacing. When the tide is out, the rocks are bare and there are calm, shallow swimming channels. Lynda has yet to brave the cold waters of the Atlantic, but Craig has swum at every location.

Zambujeira do Mar - finally, grilled sardinhas. It only took Craig 3 weeks, but we found the perfect spot. They were delicious and best of all, we ate them at 5:00 pm. We loved the vibe here and the beach was right in the centre of town. We returned for a second visit here as well, on our way to the Algarve. 

Cabo Sardao - there are no beaches here, just a lighthouse and some impressive cliffs. A reason to visit is to see the pelicans who build their nests on the edge of the cliffs. We wouldn't want to be there in the middle of a storm, but the views are spectacular. It was well worth an hour of our time. 

We spent the last three nights of our stay at Mil Reis, a bed and breakfast just up the road from our previous accommodation. We really enjoyed our room with its 4 poster bed, rainforest shower head and inside terrace, open to the sky above. Milfontes has been a great base for the last five days, but it is time to move further south. 

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Vila Nova de Milfontes

Technically we are still in the Alentejo, although we are further south and west. We have come for the ocean and the beaches; so have thousands of others. 'Tis the season, after all. Our accommodation at Casa do Adro is right in the middle of the old town. The streets are very narrow and parking is an art form, best done with a vehicle of no value. We managed to find an ideal parking spot for our little Audi right outside the house the first night. It was such a shame that we were going to have to give it up. Casa do Adro is amazing. Shortly after our arrival, one of the ladies showed up at our door with a pot of tea and two giant slices of chocolate cake. We didn't need it, but we ate it. It was the first time in seven months that Lynda has eaten such a decadent (gluten based) dessert. It was delicious. We went out for dinner and consumed the couvert (bread, cheese and olives), then ate three more tapas plates. By the time we left the restaurant, we were stuffed. After a peaceful night's sleep, we went up to the terrace and were stunned by a massive breakfast. We ate 3/4 of a fresh fruit platter, scrambled eggs, cheese, meat and toast. We were also served freshly squeezed orange juice and cafe com leite. How is it possible to consume so much food after eating such a big dinner? We aren't sure, but we know our first Bikram yoga class at the end of August will be a painful one.

There are several beaches within walking distance, but they are very crowded and after being on the farm for nine days we are feeling a bit claustrophobic. We borrowed some beach towels and an umbrella from our consummate hostess, Idalia, and drove to Praia de Malhao. It was north of town, down a dirt track, but the views were stupendous and the people few. We spent the rest of the day there, then returned to town. Craig is getting very brown. Soon he will be mistaken for a native Portuguese. We located a parking spot fairly close to the Casa (at the end of a short street), said a prayer, and walked away. Waiting for us was more tea and chocolate cake. We took it up to the terrace, helped ourselves to a small box of raspberries in the guest fridge, and called it dinner. 

Tomorrow we have to leave Idalia's B and B for another one up the road. Unfortunately, she was already fully booked. We understand why she is rated number one on Trip Advisor. Her hospitality goes well beyond the standard expectations, even without chocolate cake!

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Life on a farm

Our stay at the Herdade Da Maroteira Farm showed us and exposed us to a wonderful way to live. There's a rhythm to everything. It's a natural cork oak forest that is harvested each year on a ten year cycle. Every fall yearling pigs are fattened for six months on the acorns. The farm hands, to supplement their wages, graze cattle and goats on the grasses, and produce some cheese. In some areas of the land where the soil is right, there is a small vineyard producing a mere 25 000 bottles of very good Portugese Wine. The cool mornings are busy, the afternoons are hot and quiet, and the evenings are social. Even the animals follow the routine. There couldn't be a more perfect way to settle into a vacation!

A few more things about cork:

          It takes sixty years from planting, for your first harvest.

          Seventy percent of the world's cork comes from Portugal.

          The harvesting of cork is very labour intensive, almost done completely by hand.

          Cork is processed by boiling, which expands it by 30 percent.

          Raw cork is actually quite heavy, and fetches about $1.75 a kilogram.

          The primary use of raw cork is for wine corks.

          The scrap is then ground and mixed with glues to make fabric or construction material. 

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Monsaraz, Portugal

We saved the closest town for our last day trip in the Alentejo before we head south. Monsaraz sits on top of a hill and it was occupied by the Muslims and the Spanish numerous times over the years before it was restored to Portugese rule in 1640. The town was shored up tactically after that and it became another impregnable citadel. Nowadays, it is occupied primarily by old people and its income comes from tourism. Monsaraz has a very pleasant atmosphere with fabulous views of the surrounding grape and olive farms. Monsaraz and  Marvao both rank up there in our must see places. As usual, we arrived just in time for the mid-day siesta so we headed over to "Cafe Lumumba" for lunch. No sooner were we in the door when the place became inundated with locals. After struggling a little with the menu, we enjoyed a hearty lunch of olives, cheese, bread and lamb stew - way more than we would ever eat at home.

On our way out of town, we stopped at Sao Pedro do Corval to check out the local pottery. Although Lynda was reluctant to purchase anything breakable that we were going to have to carry around with us, Craig was insistent and we purchased a colourful fruit bowl for our kitchen. We'll see how it fares over the next few weeks. 

As we were driving home, we came across a goat herder and his flock in an adjacent field. Craig stopped to take some photos and we were able to see the herder and his five dogs transfer the goats from one side of the road to the other.  It was a very amazing sight to see, how efficiently the dogs controlled the crossing. The herder really did very little except voice a few commands and take care of the gates. It reminded us of a similar experience in Australia with sheep. 

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Caceres and Merida, Spain

We love the Motor ways. These beautiful, straight roads are fast and empty. The speed limit is 120 km per hour, but cars fly past us like we are standing still. At some points we have been going well over the speed limit, but it seems natural. We wonder about the lack of cars around us, but it might have something to do with the tolls.  We aren't sure how much it costs because we have a transponder in the car and will settle up with the rental company when we take it back. Hopefully, it won't be too big of a surprise.

Our proximity to Spain prompted us to set off for a day trip to two of the nearest towns, Caceres and Merida. We had forgotten about the time difference between the two countries so we didn't start out as early as we had anticipated. We headed north to Caceres first. Unfortunately, we did not have a Lonely Planet book on Spain and the town's high tech tourist information system didn't work for us because we left our IPhone at home. We wandered around the old town without any sense of the history. The best part of our visit was the lunch. We found a little bar and ordered "cerveza con limon" and tapas. The family sitting beside us was Australian. They had been traveling with two teenagers and a two year old since December. They had bought a car in France and had put 40,000 km on it. They had been from one end of Europe to the other and were in the last month of their journey. We congratulated them on their willingness to take a risk and live for the moment.

On to Merida...a must do for any Lovers of Roman history. For 12 Euros each, we purchased a pass that allowed us entry into a number of historical sites. We started at the "teatro"and "anfiteatro", both of which are incredibly well preserved. More importantly, all of the information signs were multilingual so we knew what we were seeing. All along the tunnel entrance to the anfiteatro, there were models of the different kinds of gladiators and facts about their weapons, clothing and opponents. The theatre is right next door and in the summer they use it for concerts and other performances. It looked like they were preparing for an evening event, but we were unable to stay to enjoy it. We also visited the Temple of Diana, the Alcazaba, the Roman bridge and the Cripta de Sta. Eulalia. It was all very well done and we highly recommend a visit to Merida. 

Two things to be aware of...Firstly, at 5:00 pm it was 40 degrees Celsius. Yes, it is hot.  Secondly, be aware of the parking meters....we did not see that the area was pay parking. When we returned to the car several hours later, we were greeted with an 80 Euro parking ticket. The attendant was patrolling the streets and when we asked him about it, we think he told us that it was only for Spanish residents.  Then again he didn't speak English so we can't say for sure.

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Where is the Alentejo?

If you drive two and a half hours into the centre of Portugal you will come upon the province of Alentejo. After a week in two cities, we were more than ready for some peace and quiet and a slower pace of life. We found it at Heridade de Maroteira, a cork farm/Agro-tourismo near Redondo. We are staying in a cute, but comfortable wood cabin on 512 acres of cork oak, some olive trees and a small vineyard. The owner of the farm, Phillip Mollett, and his family live on the property. Phillip makes a living by harvesting cork, fattening up pigs on the acorns, from which they get Iberian ham, and wine making. Other residents include chickens, goats, wild rabbits and five rescued dogs. Our favourite by far is Trash. She was found just after birth in the garbage and was bottle fed to keep her alive. Although she suffers from some brain damage, she is both energetic and loving. She is always up for a walk or some cuddles.

Our first full day in the Alentejo involved a road trip to Castelo de Vide and Marvao. We had been told to visit both places and since Friday was market day, we programmed the GPS and headed out (not as early as we'd hoped, but traveling is tiring). Upon our arrival in Castelo de Vide, we parked outside the castle wall and walked into the town. We immediately found the market and although most of the stalls were selling clothing and shoes, we hit the jackpot with an "antique" dealer. Lynda was very excited about the selection of goat bells and was able to purchase one on a leather collar for 10 Euros.  We had seen something similar in Nepal, but they were much costlier and not nearly as authentic looking. The day was scorching hot, but we explored the castelo, walked the crumbling remains of the walls and found the Fonte de Vila, the ancient source of mineral water for the town. 

We arrived in Marvao at around 4 pm. As you drive up the winding road towards the town, you are treated to an impressive view of the 13th century castelo. Its location and construction make it impenetrable. It was only seiged once by treason through a back entry. Again, we parked outside the town walls and walked in. We could have actually parked inside the walls because the town was virtually deserted. We explored our second castle of the day, walking the high walls, admiring the lush gardens and roaming the narrow streets. Marvao reminded us a lot of Gubbio in Italy. It was somewhere that we could have stayed had we known it was so nice

Saturday arrived and we had no plans other than to stay put. After a leisurely breakfast and a walk around the property with Trash and Arroba, we tackled our never ending pile of laundry. With the sun blazing by mid day, we knew it would dry quickly. We spent the latter part of the afternoon at the pool. It was about a fifteen minute walk from the cabin, but we cheated and drove down. It was quite the oasis surrounded by a brick wall, an iron gate and a variety of plants and citrus trees. The water was refreshing, and it was such a treat to be able to do nothing. The day was finished sitting in a small courtyard, watching the sun set over Alentejo, slowly uploading to our blog.

Most tourist sites are closed on Mondays so we got up early-ish and drove to Evora. It was very quiet on a Sunday morning and we were a bit let down by the absence of a castle. There were several churches and a palace to explore, but we were not inspired enough to pay the entry fees. We enjoyed a coffee in the Jardim de Diana, wandered around for a little bit and decided to move on to Alvito. Alvito is a small town 37 km southwest of Evora. The Lonely Planet guide for Portugal highly recommends it, but again, there was not much going on. By the time we arrived, we were starving so we treated ourselves to lunch at the former 15th century castle which is now a luxury pousada. We were the only guests in the restaurant. Craig ordered the most interesting and tasty tomato soup. It was served with a poached egg in the middle of it. After lunch we made our way back to Redondo and our wood lodge. We are eating later now, but we have been using the BBQ to cook our meals. Food is very inexpensive and we are saving money by cooking for ourselves. 

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Lisbon

We arrived at the Lisbon airport, collected BOTH our bags and headed for the taxi stand. We knew that the taxi ride to Chiado should cost us about 15 Euros. Taxi drivers worldwide are renowned for taking advantage of people arriving at airports. Our Lisbon taxi driver appeared to turn off the meter prior to arriving at our destination, then insisted that there was a minimum 25 Euro charge. We felt scammed until we were sitting at breakfast the next morning and a British couple admitted to paying 67 Euros for the same journey. 

On our first full day in Lisbon we got our feet wet walking across the city centre and up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. This fortification has been used by the 5th century Visigoths, the 9th century Moors, the 12th century Christians and the 15th century Royals. From this vantage point we were able to see the city and locate our B and B across town. 

The city keeps you busy so on day two we were up and at em, taking one of the tram rides Lisbon is famous for, to the district of Belem. There are several sites there which celebrate the Age of Discovery, when Portugal was at its strongest. We were particularly impressed with the 52 m high limestone monument called "Padrao dos Descobrimentos." It celebrates Portugese discoverers including Henry the Navigator, Vasco de Gama and 31 others. We enjoyed our day walking along the Rio de Tejo boardwalk. 

Everyone must make the journey to Sintra. We wish we had listened to our friend, Warren, who suggested an overnight stay in the town. Pressed for time, we just went for the day. We walked the short distance from our b and b to the Rossio train station and hopped onto the train for the 40 minute ride to Sintra. The best part....it only cost us 2 Euros each way. After disembarking at the last stop, we walked a short distance to the old town and the location of the bus that would take us to the Palace and Parque de Pena. There are other places to view, but it would take more than one day to experience them fully. We elected to concentrate on the Pena sites.

You must walk through the Parque de Pena to get to the Palace. The Palace is a very popular tourist site. It is such a unique castle that it is hard to be annoyed by the hoardes of people. When we first saw it, we thought it resembled a Bavarian castle. We later discovered that the architect and the owners had been Prussian. The outside was primarily pink and yellow in colour with onion domes and turrets. We were impressed by the fact that it was very lavish and fully furnished. The walls in the queen's bedroom were covered with intricate designs made out of plaster. Another room in the king's wing was being painstakingly restored to its original state. You were given the freedom to walk all the castle walls and the grounds. The views of the countryside and the nearby Moorish castle were spectacular. The Parque itself is lush and green, and you have many options. You could spend hours exploring the pathways alone. We went to the High Alter, the residence of the Countess of Adla, and the lakes, where you can see a castle shaped duck house. It was quiet and easy enough to get away from others. Most people seem to visit the castle and move on to the other sites. 

After hours of walking, we returned to the town and found a little bistro called "O Torque."  We enjoyed a delicious salad and lasagne for lunch, even though it was 5:30 pm. The North American in us decided it would be our dinner. We had a delightful conversation with the young owners, Mauricio and Nury, who gave us the names of some towns to visit and wines to try while we were in the Alentejo. 

The Zuzabed bed and breakfast was very well situated in the centre of it all. Craig was able to take millions of pictures of the architecture, the many characters on the street and Lisbon's trams. The best part of Zuzabed is Luis and his team. They go above and beyond to ensure that their guests are happy.
 The rooms were clean, the breakfast was outstanding (How would you like your eggs prepared?) and the team was always available via the mobile phone they provided to us. One night, Luis even called
us up and invited us to join him for a drink. We are looking forward to reconnecting with them in mid-August. 

The next morning we left town and headed out to the airport (on the metro this time) to pick up our rental car. We have it for three weeks and we will try to use it to explore some of the areas off the beaten track.

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Seeking Out the Shade in Madrid

 We rarely have this problem in Vancouver, but being a tourist in Madrid involves being on the alert for shade. We spent a great deal of time criss crossing the cobblestone streets to stay cool. We enjoyed the random breezes that materialized between the buildings as we meandered down the streets, seeking out cafes with outdoor seating that included "misting" umbrellas. Who knew such a thing existed?

We were impressed with the cleanliness of the city, the history, the massive landmarks and the multitude of restaurants. Adjusting our eating schedule was much easier this time as compared to our 2010 trip, mainly because the time change and the heat zapped our energy, and between the  hours of 6 and 8 pm, we were asleep on our bed. Tapas also encourages sharing so we didn´t have to deal with huge meals and overeating. One night we invited another bed and breakfast guest, Robin from California, to dine with us. It turns out she is a doctor whose speciality is working with children with autism, so Lynda had a lot to talk about with her.

One of our favourite places was Park de el Retiro. Right in the centre of the city, it is a haven for joggers and assorted entertainers, but on Sunday, it was packed with multi-generations of families. It was refreshing to see people out enjoying a sunny day in the city with their loved ones. We were able to cool ourselves under the trees and watch the people going by.

We also made a stop at the Palacio Real. We are not fans of tourist spots, but the palace, with its 3000 rooms and massive white courtyard, was very impressive. Unfortunately, they have a no-photography policy inside the palace and we were unable to document the ornately decorated rooms and the ample armoury.

Madrid is home to many reknowned art galleries, and three of the biggies were within close proximity to our bed and breakfast. After a lengthy discussion with Paola, we settled on the Thyssen gallery because of the variety of artwork it offered. We quickly discovered that we do not understand modern art, however, we did enjoy the portraits of the Old Masters and the Impressionist paintings. Two hours was long enough for us. We are happy to say that we had the experience, but we are not likely to go back for more, any time soon.

We would like to extend a very big thank you to Paolo and Rudolfo for creating such a warm and inviting place to stay. Bed and Breakfast is not usual in Spain, but the Artistic bed and breakfast exceeded our expectations. The location was amazing, the rooms were large and very clean, and the breakfasts were ample. Paola went beyond the call of duty when Craig´s baggage was M.I.A. and we enjoyed many conversations with both of them. If you are ever in Madrid, you must stay with them.

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Hola Madrid!

It's all about the people and the stories, and it seems we are never lacking for either.  As Lynda waited at the gate for our KLM flight to Madrid, Craig ambled over to the windows to take a photo of our plane set against the coastal mountains. We were late boarding and people were beginning to get a bit antsy. Craig returned excitedly and showed Lynda photos of what was happening on the Tarmac. When he looked down there were two vehicles and a group of men, including several Canada Border Services agents, surrounding the second vehicle. Very slowly they extricated an African man from the back of the car and led him (in handcuffs) up the back stairs of our plane. We had already seen three men we assumed to be air marshalls boarding the plane via the front gate so now our curiosity was really piqued. Many hours later Craig did see our special guest sitting near the back of the plane between his two hosts. The rest of the passengers were oblivious.

Luckily, our flight was uneventful. After a short stopover in Amsterdam we boarded another KLM plane for the two hour flight to Madrid. In no time we were there. We made our way to the baggage carousel and waited for our luggage with the other passengers. We were feeling pretty good about traveling so light. Lynda's bag came quickly and then we waited, and waited and waited. The baggage stopped coming and the gates closed. For the second time in six months, Craig's bag did not arrive at our destination.

We found the line for lost luggage and waited some more. The agent was unable to tell us where the bag was although he was pretty sure it would arrive on the next flight from Amsterdam. In any case, they would deliver it to our bed and breakfast. In the meantime Craig had only the clothes on his back (long pants, a golf shirt and leather shoes) and the temperature was nearing 38 degrees. We took a taxi to the Artistic bed and breakfast and met our host, Paola. She assured us she would check with the airline so we lay down for a nap. To make a long story short, we slept through the night, and the luggage did not arrive until 5 pm the next day. By that time Craig had bought a toothbrush, two new shirts and a pair of shorts. Lynda had written the bag off, but with Dutch efficiency, it appeared no worse for wear. We were very relieved as the thought of replacing all of the items was overwhelming, to say the least. 

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New Year's in Nassau

It took less than a minute to return the rental car at the Tampa airport. Then we took a quick trip to Miami, where we boarded a much smaller plane for the short hop across the water to Nassau. Upon our arrival we discovered that Craig's luggage was missing in action. Fortunately, we were second in a long line up of people with a similar problem. After a twenty minute delay, we exited the arrivals area and were welcomed by the smiling faces of Kathy and Glenn.

Our destination was the beautiful community of Sandyport, a gated community of Bahamian colonial homes on a meandering canal system. Warm weather, swimming pools, tennis courts, kayaking off the dock and Starbucks down the road. What more could a vacationer want? Oh yes, boats of all sizes (sorry Craig).

Nassau itself is nothing remarkable. Clearly, it caters to the cruise ship crowd. Off the boat in the morning, back on the boat in the afternoon. There are, however, some very colourful characters living there. We spent eight delightful days eating, drinking, people watching, playing cards and catching up with our friends. Craig managed to make friends with one of the neighbours who invited him out on his boat for a morning of ocean fishing. Kathy and Lynda trekked over to Paradise Island and visited the aquariums at Atlantis. And thanks to Glenn, we spent a lazy, hot afternoon on the beach at his resort.

This was truly two weeks of vacation. We actually felt rested when we got home. Many thanks to all of our friends and family for hosting us. We have no plans for Spring break this year, but another big trip is planned for the summer of 2013.

Christmas in Florida

After several Christmas' at home, we decided to join Lynda's family and extended family at the Royal Coachman Resort in Nokomis, Florida. It would be our first experience at an RV resort and our first trip to Florida.

It was a bit stressful getting organized and ready to leave the day after school ended, but as soon as we boarded our Air Canada flight to Tampa (via Toronto) and took our seats in Business class (Merry Christmas, Craig), vacation mode began. The flights and the service were both excellent and we arrived in Tampa on schedule. After picking up our luggage, we headed over to Budget to pick up a car. Unfortunately, we were there much longer than we would have liked due to a very aggressive sales representative who tried to upsell us on everything. "Wouldn't we prefer to have a much bigger and faster Ford Mustang? Wouldn't we prefer to buy the extra insurance since 90% of drivers in Florida are uninsured?" It was a seriously annoying encounter after 12 hours of travelling, but that is what they count on, isn't it?

How we actually managed to find the Royal Coachman is a bit of a miracle. The GPS directed us to an empty field on the side of the freeway, and Lynda's cell phone died in mid conversation with Jim as we tried to sort ourselves out. We were about to turn around and go back to a gas station when the sign magically appeared on the side of the road. When we arrived at the gate some sympathetic resident gave us the code and directions to our destination. We had finally arrived.

Most of our party was already there...Lynda's sister in law, Lara, with her two kids, Nana Irene, Lara's parents and her sister. We were only awaiting the arrival of Lynda's brother and the husky dogs who were in the midst of a Transatlantic journey. They did not arrive until 5pm on Christmas Day after a 22 hour hour drive from Toronto.

We enjoyed six relaxing and entertaining days in Nokomis. It was so nice to be away for Christmas and not succumb to the commercialism of the holiday. We ate, we drank, we swam, we shopped and we ate some more. The atmosphere at the Royal Coachman was friendly and festive. Many of the residents decorated their houses. On Christmas Eve there was a parade, and after dark the streets were lined with thousands of luminaries. Irene, Lou and Lynda even attended a candlelight church service. On Christmas Day we drove down to the beach and looked for shark's teeth and shells. Even though it wasn't the warmest weather, the sun was shining and we knew it was much colder in Vancouver.

Friday arrived and we said our goodbyes. The rest of the group was staying, but we were on our way back to Tampa to start the second part of our vacation....New Year's in Nassau, the Bahamas.