A week in Tuscany

We have finally arrived in Tuscany! After months of staying in campgrounds, bed and breakfasts and pensions, we have moved up in the world. For one week we stayed in an apartment in a medieval villa called "Le Torri," located about 20 km south of Florence. We read about "Le Torri" in a Globe and Mail article in March 2009 and were awestruck by the pictures and videos on their website. We booked it in May 2009 and began a long wait. "Le Torri" is everything we hoped it would be and more. Gabriele and his family are perfect hosts who go out of their way to enhance your vacation experience. On the evening of our arrival, they treated everyone to a welcome buffet and on Wednesday evening, they held a traditional Tuscan meal. Delicious! The villa consists of nine apartments in total and the week we were there, all but one of them was filled with Canadians. It was refreshing for us to be amongst our countrymen (and women) again. We are very grateful to fellow guests, Mark and Elaine from Victoria. Not only did we enjoy their company, but they took us along on a couple of day trips to surrounding towns.
Siena - Without a doubt, Siena has the most beautiful and elaborate cathedral that we have seen in the course of our travels. It dates back to the 12th and 13th centuries and has a unique white, green and red marble facade. You could spend hours wandering around and still not see everything. We also spent some time in "Il Campo." This is the large city square that also happens to be the location of the famous horse race called "Il Palio." There are many other sights to see in Siena, but since we were only there for the day, we spent the rest of our time wandering the streets with Mark and Elaine, having coffee and window shopping.
Montespertoli - A huge draw in Tuscany is the landscape. The olive groves, the vineyards, the rolling hills. We set out one morning to walk to the neighbouring town of Montespertoli. We could see it from our villa, on the top of a neighbouring hillside. (Yes Mark, it is only ten minutes in the car.) Down, down, down then up, up, up. An hour and a half later, our calves and hamstrings burning, we reached our destination. The trip back was equally brutal. Upon our return to "Le Torri" we suited up and headed straight for the pool. Although the water was a cool 20 degrees Celcius, the sun was shining and we were hot and sweaty. It took Lynda a half an hour, but once she was in the water, she stayed in longer than Craig. Let's just say that it was very "refreshing." San Gimignano and Volterra - The weather in Italy this May has been abnormally temperamental, according to the locals. We left "Le Torri" with Mark and Elaine at noon in sunny and clear conditions. By the time, we arrived in San Gimignano, it was cold, raining and windy. By the time we walked to the top of town, there was also thunder and lightning. The only consolation was that the weather kept most of the tourists away. We decided to stop for some lunch and when we were done, the storm had passed and we were able to wander around and experience the town. On to Volterra. It seemed fitting that we would arrive there on a dark and gloomy day. For those of you who aren't familiar with teen fiction, Volterra has become famous thanks to Stephenie Meyer's Twilight series. It is perched precariously on a hilltop. After travelling up a long, windy road, you park at the bottom of the hill and hike up the steps to one of the town's four gates. We didn't have a lot of time since we arrived at the end of the day, but it looked like an interesting place. There is an archealogical park, an Etruscan museum, a Roman theatre and many nooks and crannies to explore.

Florence - What can you see in Florence in one day? This was Lynda's second trip there. She was in Florence with her mom thirteen years ago and on this trip, she wanted to visit the previously skipped, Uffizi Gallery. Gabriele reserved tickets for us ahead of time so that when we arrived, we were able to walk right in. Equipped with audio guides, we set off to see the vast art collection of the Medici family. We saw works by Botticelli, Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Raphael and Caravaggio, to name a few. It was a bit overwhelming. After four hours we decided to call it a day and headed outside to get some fresh air. There was a lot to see in the Piazza della Signoria, between the tourists and the dramatic sculptures. We continued our walk along the Arno river and across the Ponte Vecchio. We wanted to wander through the Boboli Gardens at the Pitti Palace, but unfortunately, you can't see one without the other. So we settled for some gelato and continued our walk to the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Finally, a place to sit down. Time flew by and before long, we were on the bus and heading back to "Le Torri."
What a great week! Some sightseeing, some relaxation, some fabulous food and some great company. What more could we ask for? We regret that we were unable to share this experience with Lynda's mom as originally planned. We are now on our way to Montepulciano where we will spend a week at "Appartamenti al Poggiolo." We are looking forward to experiencing more of Tuscany.

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Venice, Italy

We have arrived back in Italy. How is it that we managed to save the most expensive country for last? With a mere 46 days remaining on our sabbatical, reality is harsh. Even with a favourable exchange rate between the dollar and the Euro, Lynda is going to be in need of a summer job.
Venice...full of energy and life. We exited Italian Customs and Immigration and, armed with our twenty kuna map from Venezia Lines, headed over to the nearest vaporetto (water bus) stop. There was a lot of confusion about tickets, but we finally found a small convenience store where we were able to purchase a thirty-six hour transit pass. Onto vaporetto number 2 for a trip to the train station, then a switch to vaporetto number 1 and down the Grand Canal. It is a spectacular sight - boats and gondolas everywhere. We disembarked at the San Silvestro stop and attempted to use the payphone to call Mario, the host of our bed and breakfast. Easier said than done. Italian payphones are not straightforward. There were too many options (email, SMS, info etc.) and the instructions were all in Italian. Even with help from one of the locals, we were stymied. Eventually we figured it out. Mario arrived and he led us to "Residenza degli Angeli," a lovely home on a quiet street about ten minutes from the Rialto Bridge.
Make no mistake about it, tourists are everywhere. Venice is a maze of narrow, European streets with canals and bridges thrown in to impede your progress. The most commonly overheard conversation has to do with "where are we?" and "Where are we trying to go?" The locals are easily distinguished from the tourists - they are the ones without the maps. Lucky for us, we are still on good terms. It wouldn't have taken much for Craig to lose Lynda here. After four days, she still couldn't find her way back to the bed and breakfast from two streets away.
In a city where your only source of transportation is by boat, Craig was delighted. Taxi boats, delivery boats, moving company boats, garbage boats and the boats of young people (complete with boom boxes and fuzzy dice.) We watched the efficiency with which goods were distributed by boat, then cart to the final destination. Unlike the masses, we did not pay to go on a gondola ride. Our main goal was to avoid the crowds, so we walked and walked and walked some more. Yet in looking at our map, we barely covered 1/3 of the city's area. When we got too tired, we'd jump on the vaporetto, sit on a park bench or stop for a cappuccino. People watching in Venice can be a full-time job. We were highly amused by the street vendors, especially the guys selling knock-off purses. Their business is brisk, but they are watchful because they are constantly trying to stay one step ahead of the police.
The weather in Venice was quite changeable. Within a twenty-four hour period, we had sun, rain, thunder and lightning. Not that it dampened our spirits. The worst of the weather was in the evenings. We walked to the Piazza San Marco and had a look around, but we did not go into the Basilica or the Palazzo Ducale or any of the museums. The line-ups were long and we decided we would prefer not to pass our time that way. We did make a trip by vaporetto to Murano to see a demonstration of glass blowing. We wandered around the Pescaria (fish market) and the Rialto Market and ogled the wares. We lamented our inability to fill our shopping basket and go home and cook. On our last night in Venice, we attended the I Musici Veneziana performance of Vivaldi's Four Seasons. It was very fitting to be listening to such beautiful masterpieces in Vivaldi's hometown.
Venice is definitely one of the most unique cities in the world and, a must-do, at least once in your life. We were thrilled to have seen it, but now we are on the move again. We have tickets on the 9:30 am Eurostar train to Florence. Once we get there, we have to make our way by bus to San Quirico in Collina where we are spending a week in luxury at "Le Torri." Lynda is looking forward to having WiFii access again. It's hard to do research and make travel arrangements when you are paying by the minute in an Internet cafe.

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Rovinj, Croatia

Our journey to Rovinj from Plitvice Lakes consisted of three buses and nine hours of travelling. Our longest stop was two hours in Rijeka, but we put the time to good use. It turns out the town offers free WiFii from a tower in the centre of town, so we planted ourselves in a cafe and caught up on the latest emails. We really miss our connection to the outside world when we don't have it. On the walk to and from the bus station, Craig was actively taking in the architecture and capturing more images. By the time we finally arrived in Rovinj, we were exhausted. Natalina from Villa Dobravac was kind enough to pick us up at the bus terminal, so we were saved the challenge of locating our accommodation on our own.
Why Rovinj? We have heard from numerous sources that the Istrian peninsula is one of the most beautiful places in Croatia, but we didn't go there for that reason. We went because of its proximity to Venice. We were looking for the most direct route to Venice and Venezia Lines runs a hydrofoil across the pond three times a week. Once in Rovinj, we questioned our decision. Perhaps the scheduled trip was on, perhaps not. It depended on the weather and if enough passengers had booked. We did find out the day before our departure that there were enough passengers to run the ferry and if the weather was not good, Venezia Lines was going to arrange alternate transportation .... yes, another bus.
Rovinj is a typical coastal fishing town. It has a large harbour and thousands of boats. There are lots of cafes and gelato shops. Unfortunately, we did not see Rovinj at its best. For the first two nights of our stay, we were the only guests at our accommodation. When the other guests did arrive, they did not speak English. Also, for most of the time we were there, it was either cloudy, windy or raining. Not that we should complain, but it is hard not to be affected by the weather when you are away from your home and your friends, and you have no television or Internet to distract you. So, we were happy to get on the hydrofoil on Wednesday and make our way to Venice. On the pier in the morning while we were waiting for the catamaran to arrive, we met John and Ginny from Seattle. It was great talking with them and sharing a few laughs. They were on their way to Padua, but we have exchanged info and we hope to see them again when we are back on the west coast.

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Looking ahead to Canada Day

For all of you who are not otherwise engaged, we would like to invite you to a very informal beer and burger Canada Day gathering at our house. Since we will only be arriving home quite late the night before, we will need your help to pull this off. We can supply the burgers and all the trimmings. Any contribution you can make would be greatly appreciated. BYOB and tales of what's been going on since we've been gone. RSVP to our email address. We look forward to seeing you then!

Plitvice Lakes, Croatia

Thanks to Emil and Elise we were staying at a Sobe in the village of Rastavaca, about a fifteen minute walk from Gate One at Plitvice Lakes National Park. Rastavaca is a little Bavarian village. The houses are fashioned after alpine chalets and they are all Sobes. No suprise there, considering the village's proximity to the park. Our Sobe was owned by Ana and Ljubo Spehar. Although they did not have WiFii, the house was immaculate. Clean air. Bright and cheerful. We were in heaven! And the price? Cheaper than the "pit in Split". We immediately decided that we were going to have to stay two nights. After storing our belongings in our room, we headed back to the park, purchased a two day pass and began our exploration.
Plitvice National Park is a popular tourist attraction. Although there is a constant stream of tour buses pulling in and out, it is possible to avoid the masses. We managed to achieve this by NOT following the directional arrows on the sign posts. The tight, twisted alleys we have become used to gave way to vast, open, green spaces with trees, fresh air and cascading waterfalls. It reminded us of home. The park is very well organized in terms of transportation. There are trams between the parking lots and boats in two different locations to ferry people across the water. It is such a shame that Plitvice is a mere day stop for most people. We could have spent several days here and continued to enjoy the magnificence of it all.
While we were eating dinner at a restaurant on our first night there, we were surprised and thrilled by the arrival of our South African friends, Emil and Elise. Their arrival from Zadar had been delayed by the cancellation of another bus. We were horrified to hear that there had been a mix-up at the Sobe with their arrival date and while we had a room, they did not. They had been re-located to Ana's sister's house, two doors down. We spent a couple of hours laughing over the trials and tribulations of travelling and discussing our future plans. Unfortunately, we did not see them again, but we are hopeful that they will turn up in Vancouver one day in the near future.

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Split, Croatia

It turns out that the weather was not bad enough to cancel the Krilo Jet so we, along with Emil and Elise, were successful in reaching Split by 8:30 the next morning. We said goodbye to them at the bus station and made a mandatory stop for our daily caffeine fix at a nearby cafe. We could finally relax, and it also gave Craig time to study the map to find our accommodation.

Split is a big city, but it is also a regular stop on the cruise ship and backpacker circuit, so it is tourist friendly. We liked the atmosphere. It reminded us of Kusadasi, Turkey. Within two hours of arriving we were down at the Cathedral of St. Domnius which dates back 1700 years. The cathedral has the most amazing set of wooden doors which were carved in the 13th century and depict the life of Christ. We paid the extra kunas to climb the bell tower. In the past we have found that this is where you get some of the best views of the surrounding area. Our ascent was a bit intriguing. We passed a fellow on his way down who was wearing climbing gear and, at the top, there was some unattended rappelling gear. Later when we were down in the square, a crowd had gathered and there were several television cameras in the area. Everyone seemed to be waiting for something to happen. Just before noon, the climber reappeared and began to scale the outside of the bell tower. When he was about half way up, the bells started pealing. They continued to ring until he had climbed the spire on the top of the tower and hung the Croatian flag. A television reporter told us it was all part of the festivities for the upcoming celebration in the city on May 7th.
On our second day in Split, we took the bus to a nearby town called Trogir. It is about thirty minutes away and it is also located on the Adriatic Sea. Several people told us it was worth a visit. It has the seaside promenade, the castle walls and an old town with twisting, winding streets. Unfortunately, the weather was changing. Normally the wind comes from the southwest bringing warmth from the Sahara desert. The "Bor" wind comes from the north and brings cold, miserable weather.

Luckily the rain held off and we were able to view Trogir's pride and joy, the cathedral of St. Lovro. It is considered to be one of Croatia's finest architectural works. We were impressed with the many sculptures which decorate it and the view from the bell tower. Don't ask how many stairs we have climbed over the last two weeks. We have lost count.
We have been very successful finding accommodation over the last 8 months. After Lynda does some research on the Internet, we contact a few places and usually one of them has a vacancy. In Split, we did not follow our usual pattern. We were given a recommendation in Dubrovnik and decided to take a chance. Let's put it this way...it was a dud. We are now referring to it as "the pit in Split." We cannot complain about the location. It was in the Old Town and although it was noisy at night because of all the cafes and bars in the area, it was centrally located to all the sights. First problem: they were heavy smokers. We never realized how much we detest the smell of smoke until we stayed there. It is insidious. It clings to all of your belongings, long after you have left the establishment. Second problem: the lady ripped us off. When we arrived she told us the price was 200 kunas per night. This seemed reasonable because we were using a bathroom down the hall, and there was no breakfast or Internet access. When we went to pay her the night before we left, she jacked the price to 250 kunas and told us that "we misunderstood" her. What could we do? We paid her the money and at first light the next day, we were gone.
We trooped off to the bus station for our trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We were very excited about the prospect of having an outdoor experience...trees, lakes, waterfalls etc. The drive from Split takes approximately four hours. In Croatia, the intercity buses have two drivers. They alternate between being the driver and the attendant. One of our drivers was completely reckless.

We were convinced that he thought he was Mario Andretti and he was out to set a personal best time. He was talking on his cell phone, passing on curves, and speeding and tailgating on wet, mountainous roads. At one point, while driving, he was standing up and looking behind him as he searched his belongings for his cell phone. It is a miracle that we made it to Plitvice in one piece. We got off the bus on the side of the road at Gate One and started walking to our Sobe in the village of Rastavaca. Although it had been raining all morning, the weather had cleared and we were optimistic that we were going to be able to see the park without getting soaking wet.

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Hvar, Croatia

Hvar is a quaint, little port with fishing boats, castles and red roofs that has been discovered by people with big, fancy boats who have lots of money to spend. We were excited to see a 38 foot sailboat proudly flying a Canadian flag anchored in the harbour. The price of our morning cappucino rose dramatically, however we were able to find several locations where they would brew it hot enough to our liking so it was worth the extra kunas. We also found an affordable Sobe with a wonderful harbour view and friendly holiday makers from Australia, Canada and South Africa. It was good to sit on the terrace, soak up the views and exchange stories over cold beverages. We were also thrilled to have kitchen facilities again. After several months of eating out, we were keen to cook our own food and even do dishes. This also gave our pocket book a much needed break. We spent several days walking around visiting the usual tourist attractions and browsing in some shops. Lavendar grows wild throughout the island and there are people selling it from little stands all over town. Rosemary and sage also grow well on Hvar. One afternoon we went for a hike along the coast and found it growing everywhere. Later that afternoon we stumbled upon an unusual tourist attraction. It seems there are a number of naturalist beaches here.
We extended our stay in Hvar because Craig wanted to rent one of the traditional fishing boats equipped with a 5 horse outboard and visit the Pakleni islands, immediately offshore, with their multitude of coves and beaches. Unfortunately, the wind came up and it didn't let up. We were also disappointed in our efforts to see the prized painting of the Last Supper by 17th century artist, Matej Ponzoni Poncun. It was located just down the road from our Sobe at the Franciscan Monastery. Although their advertised hours included an opening between 5 and 7 pm, when we went to the Monastery, the Museum was closed. We rang the bell and the monk that answered the door told us to come back in the morning. Obviously, it is still too early in the season for regular hours.

All in all, we had a nice, quiet stay in Hvar. It has given Lynda some time to recover from a head cold that appeared out of nowhere. If the wind cooperates, it's another early morning departure for ourselves and our new friends, Emil and Elise, from South Africa. We are all heading for Split on the Krilo Jet. Hopefully, our plans will go smoothly and we won't be scrambling to make other arrangements.

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Korcula, Croatia

At 3:00 pm on the dot, our bus pulled out of Dubrovnik and we began a three and a half hour journey to the island of Korcula. (Interestingly enough, there was a couple from Gibsons, BC on the bus.) The winding road along the coast and the adjacent islands reminded us of the Gulf Islands at home. We now know why everyone says Croatia is so beautiful. When we arrived at Orebic, we had to wait for the ferry. Craig wandered off to take some photos. He noticed that the guy who ties up the ferry also sells the tickets and then loads it. All very manageable considering the size of the boat. Within twenty minutes, we had made the short journey across the water and were at the bus station in the town of Korcula. We are becoming very spoiled. Many of the Sobe owners come and meet you upon your arrival. It is always a delight to arrive in a location and see someone standing there holding a sign with your name on it. Rezi de Polo is a woman after Lynda's own heart. On our way to her Sobe, she had to stop and pick up some cat food. She has somehow taken on the responsibility of feeding half a dozen of the neighbourhood cats. Rezi's house is located on the waterfront about five minutes from the town centre. Craig enjoyed our walks to and from town as it gave him an opportunity to ogle the boats, many of which were being readied for the upcoming season. After settling into our room, we headed into town to get some dinner. We went to "Mareto" and ran into a Swedish family who had been travelling with us on the bus. We all sat together and exchanged travel stories. Anneka and her parents were in Croatia as a celebration for her mother's 60th birthday. It was a very pleasant evening.
Korcula resembles Dubrovnic with its walls, round towers and red roofed houses. It is significantly smaller, but we loved its size and its quaintness. We especially liked the drama of the modern day staircase which takes you into the old town. According to the locals, Korcula is the birthplace of the famous explorer and Venetian merchant, Marco Polo. The town marks the location of his birth house and plans are being made for a museum in his name. Although many historical documents claim that Marco Polo was born in Venice, Korcula was under Venetian rule at the time so there may be truth in both stories.
We rented a scooter one day so that we could see some of the island. We loved the little village of Racisce. It consists of houses, a church, two cafes, a post office and many boats in the harbour. It is so picturesque. We inched our way up a steep hill to the village of Pupnat where the views were outstanding and we could see for miles. Then we headed back towards Korcula and onto the village of Lumbarda, which is known for its sandy beaches and vineyards. Everywhere you look there are boats and bays and turquoise waters. We can't believe that we couldn't convince Jim and Karen to meet us in Croatia. Another time perhaps?
We have stretched our stay out as long as we dare. We are now off to the island of Hvar. One hour and fifteen minutes on the Krilo Jet catamaran. The unfortunate reality of this journey is its 6:00 am departure. Not to worry, we will get our travelling out of the way early in the day and have more time to explore another island.

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Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik is brilliant! As soon as we got off the ferry, a weight was lifted off our shoulders and we felt relaxed again. Who wouldn't be relaxed? Thanks to our Croatian seatmates at the BC Lion's football games, we were staying in the private home of Mrs. Luca Krkic, high up on the hill behind the old city. 295 steps and a 12% grade for 6 blocks, but the view was amazing. Everywhere we looked we saw red clay roofs, enclosed in the impressive stone castle walls with the dazzling Adriatic sea as a backdrop. As we sat on the deck every morning, eating our breakfast in the sunshine we felt like we were a part of something magical. Then came the reality. Two round trips per day into the city to remind us that exercise is a necessary evil when you are traveling.
While many of our Canadian friends are desperate for signs of spring, it has already arrived in Dubrovnik. In fact, Dubrovnik reminds us of a tropical city. What stands out more than anything is the sweet smell of blossoms in the air. We were also amazed by the lush vegetable gardens. Apparently, the locals start planting in February. Everyone has rows and rows of potatoes and onions. Luca is already harvesting her lettuce. We were so envious. Garden fresh vegetables at the end of April. It didn't seem real. A popular activity with all tourists is a walk around the walls of the old city. The walls were built between the 13th and 16th centuries and they completely surround the city. They are 2 km long and 25 m high. As you walk along, you are treated to views from all angles and you are able to climb up into a few towers. Entrance to the city itself is through four gates. Inside the walls we found churches, museums, souvenir shops, book stores, and art shops. Oh, and lots of places selling gelato. It seems that everyone likes Italian icecream. Lucky for us it is a bit early for cruise ships. There was no more than one ship per day in port while we were there, but it is not hard to imagine what it is like in the height of the season. The sheer number of restaurants is a clue. We found it amusing to watch the waiters in their attempts to lure in more customers. It seems that the friendliest (i.e. noisiest) ones are also the busiest.
While we are visiting a place, we are forced to perform some of life's more mundane tasks. We were thrilled to be able to do laundry at the Krkic house. It was just like being in Australia again. Hang the clothes up on the line and they are dry within hours. Craig's first order of business upon his return home? A clothes line in the backyard. Hopefully, the neighbours won't mind too much. On another note, we had a successful shopping expedition. Craig was able to find another new hat. It seems his wool chapeau is too hot in this weather. He is now sporting a red, Nike, dry fit cap with a silver swoosh. Unfortunately, as soon as we arrive in a place, we are also planning our departure. One day we walked from the old town to the port with the hope of finding a ferry to the island of Korcula, our next destination. Yet again, we are here too early in the season. It seems that we are going to have to take the bus. Not that we mind, but ultimately Craig is a water baby. If we had to choose between land and sea, sea would win out every time. For both of us, this was our first visit to a former Socialist state. It goes without saying that the history of this area is complicated and while we are thirsty for knowledge, we are sensitive to the feelings of others. We do know, from the Krkic family, that Dubrovnik was under attack from the Yugoslavian army, the Serbs and the Montenegrins in 1991-1992. These forces were located on the hill behind and to the left of their home. A lot of damage was done to the city. We read somewhere that 68% of the roofs on buildings within the city walls have been replaced. A must see in Dubrovnik is War Photo Limited. It is an exhibit of war images taken by some of the best photojournalists in the world. Some of the conflicts that have been photographed include the Yugoslav war, Iraq, Afganistan, Sierra Leone and the Congo. It was a sobering experience, but it heightened our awareness of how lucky we are to live in a country that has never had a war on its own soil.
We would like to say a special thank you to Mr. Begovic of the Begovic Boarding house. Although we did not stay with him, we met him in town a couple of times and he was friendly and helpful on both occasions. When we first arrived in Dubrovnic, he used his phone to call the Krkic's to advise them of our arrival. He also drove another traveller to the campground - all out of the goodness of his heart. If you are thinking about travelling in Croatia, there is no need to stay in hotels. There are hundreds of Sobe (private homes), in great locations, at affordable prices. It is also the best way to meet the locals and your fellow travellers.

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