Dubrovnik, Croatia

Dubrovnik is brilliant! As soon as we got off the ferry, a weight was lifted off our shoulders and we felt relaxed again. Who wouldn't be relaxed? Thanks to our Croatian seatmates at the BC Lion's football games, we were staying in the private home of Mrs. Luca Krkic, high up on the hill behind the old city. 295 steps and a 12% grade for 6 blocks, but the view was amazing. Everywhere we looked we saw red clay roofs, enclosed in the impressive stone castle walls with the dazzling Adriatic sea as a backdrop. As we sat on the deck every morning, eating our breakfast in the sunshine we felt like we were a part of something magical. Then came the reality. Two round trips per day into the city to remind us that exercise is a necessary evil when you are traveling.
While many of our Canadian friends are desperate for signs of spring, it has already arrived in Dubrovnik. In fact, Dubrovnik reminds us of a tropical city. What stands out more than anything is the sweet smell of blossoms in the air. We were also amazed by the lush vegetable gardens. Apparently, the locals start planting in February. Everyone has rows and rows of potatoes and onions. Luca is already harvesting her lettuce. We were so envious. Garden fresh vegetables at the end of April. It didn't seem real. A popular activity with all tourists is a walk around the walls of the old city. The walls were built between the 13th and 16th centuries and they completely surround the city. They are 2 km long and 25 m high. As you walk along, you are treated to views from all angles and you are able to climb up into a few towers. Entrance to the city itself is through four gates. Inside the walls we found churches, museums, souvenir shops, book stores, and art shops. Oh, and lots of places selling gelato. It seems that everyone likes Italian icecream. Lucky for us it is a bit early for cruise ships. There was no more than one ship per day in port while we were there, but it is not hard to imagine what it is like in the height of the season. The sheer number of restaurants is a clue. We found it amusing to watch the waiters in their attempts to lure in more customers. It seems that the friendliest (i.e. noisiest) ones are also the busiest.
While we are visiting a place, we are forced to perform some of life's more mundane tasks. We were thrilled to be able to do laundry at the Krkic house. It was just like being in Australia again. Hang the clothes up on the line and they are dry within hours. Craig's first order of business upon his return home? A clothes line in the backyard. Hopefully, the neighbours won't mind too much. On another note, we had a successful shopping expedition. Craig was able to find another new hat. It seems his wool chapeau is too hot in this weather. He is now sporting a red, Nike, dry fit cap with a silver swoosh. Unfortunately, as soon as we arrive in a place, we are also planning our departure. One day we walked from the old town to the port with the hope of finding a ferry to the island of Korcula, our next destination. Yet again, we are here too early in the season. It seems that we are going to have to take the bus. Not that we mind, but ultimately Craig is a water baby. If we had to choose between land and sea, sea would win out every time. For both of us, this was our first visit to a former Socialist state. It goes without saying that the history of this area is complicated and while we are thirsty for knowledge, we are sensitive to the feelings of others. We do know, from the Krkic family, that Dubrovnik was under attack from the Yugoslavian army, the Serbs and the Montenegrins in 1991-1992. These forces were located on the hill behind and to the left of their home. A lot of damage was done to the city. We read somewhere that 68% of the roofs on buildings within the city walls have been replaced. A must see in Dubrovnik is War Photo Limited. It is an exhibit of war images taken by some of the best photojournalists in the world. Some of the conflicts that have been photographed include the Yugoslav war, Iraq, Afganistan, Sierra Leone and the Congo. It was a sobering experience, but it heightened our awareness of how lucky we are to live in a country that has never had a war on its own soil.
We would like to say a special thank you to Mr. Begovic of the Begovic Boarding house. Although we did not stay with him, we met him in town a couple of times and he was friendly and helpful on both occasions. When we first arrived in Dubrovnic, he used his phone to call the Krkic's to advise them of our arrival. He also drove another traveller to the campground - all out of the goodness of his heart. If you are thinking about travelling in Croatia, there is no need to stay in hotels. There are hundreds of Sobe (private homes), in great locations, at affordable prices. It is also the best way to meet the locals and your fellow travellers.

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