Sunday, May 9, 2010

Split, Croatia

It turns out that the weather was not bad enough to cancel the Krilo Jet so we, along with Emil and Elise, were successful in reaching Split by 8:30 the next morning. We said goodbye to them at the bus station and made a mandatory stop for our daily caffeine fix at a nearby cafe. We could finally relax, and it also gave Craig time to study the map to find our accommodation.
Split is a big city, but it is also a regular stop on the cruise ship and backpacker circuit, so it is tourist friendly. We liked the atmosphere. It reminded us of Kusadasi, Turkey. Within two hours of arriving we were down at the Cathedral of St. Domnius which dates back 1700 years. The cathedral has the most amazing set of wooden doors which were carved in the 13th century and depict the life of Christ. We paid the extra kunas to climb the bell tower. In the past we have found that this is where you get some of the best views of the surrounding area. Our ascent was a bit intriguing. We passed a fellow on his way down who was wearing climbing gear and, at the top, there was some unattended rappelling gear. Later when we were down in the square, a crowd had gathered and there were several television cameras in the area. Everyone seemed to be waiting for something to happen. Just before noon, the climber reappeared and began to scale the outside of the bell tower. When he was about half way up, the bells started pealing. They continued to ring until he had climbed the spire on the top of the tower and hung the Croatian flag. A television reporter told us it was all part of the festivities for the upcoming celebration in the city on May 7th.
On our second day in Split, we took the bus to a nearby town called Trogir. It is about thirty minutes away and it is also located on the Adriatic Sea. Several people told us it was worth a visit. It has the seaside promenade, the castle walls and an old town with twisting, winding streets. Unfortunately, the weather was changing. Normally the wind comes from the southwest bringing warmth from the Sahara desert. The "Bor" wind comes from the north and brings cold, miserable weather.
Luckily the rain held off and we were able to view Trogir's pride and joy, the cathedral of St. Lovro. It is considered to be one of Croatia's finest architectural works. We were impressed with the many sculptures which decorate it and the view from the bell tower. Don't ask how many stairs we have climbed over the last two weeks. We have lost count.
We have been very successful finding accommodation over the last 8 months. After Lynda does some research on the Internet, we contact a few places and usually one of them has a vacancy. In Split, we did not follow our usual pattern. We were given a recommendation in Dubrovnik and decided to take a chance. Let's put it this way...it was a dud. We are now referring to it as "the pit in Split." We cannot complain about the location. It was in the Old Town and although it was noisy at night because of all the cafes and bars in the area, it was centrally located to all the sights. First problem: they were heavy smokers. We never realized how much we detest the smell of smoke until we stayed there. It is insidious. It clings to all of your belongings, long after you have left the establishment. Second problem: the lady ripped us off. When we arrived she told us the price was 200 kunas per night. This seemed reasonable because we were using a bathroom down the hall, and there was no breakfast or Internet access. When we went to pay her the night before we left, she jacked the price to 250 kunas and told us that "we misunderstood" her. What could we do? We paid her the money and at first light the next day, we were gone.
We trooped off to the bus station for our trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park. We were very excited about the prospect of having an outdoor experience...trees, lakes, waterfalls etc. The drive from Split takes approximately four hours. In Croatia, the intercity buses have two drivers. They alternate between being the driver and the attendant. One of our drivers was completely reckless.

We were convinced that he thought he was Mario Andretti and he was out to set a personal best time. He was talking on his cell phone, passing on curves, and speeding and tailgating on wet, mountainous roads. At one point, while driving, he was standing up and looking behind him as he searched his belongings for his cell phone. It is a miracle that we made it to Plitvice in one piece. We got off the bus on the side of the road at Gate One and started walking to our Sobe in the village of Rastavaca. Although it had been raining all morning, the weather had cleared and we were optimistic that we were going to be able to see the park without getting soaking wet.

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